今天跑去Wakiki海灘衝浪了, So exciting.
In the morning, I will my good teacher, Thomas, 27 years old handsome man, and Naoki, Q, June, 川田 go to the Wakiki beach.
We are all students in Hawaii English language program (HELP), and this activity is our first free activity in Hawaii.
Today, the Wakiki beach had a big sun but the seawater is a little chill. However, there is always full of people in Wakiki beach.
I think that you must have seen the Wakiki beach in the picture, yes, you get it, a beach full of bikini girls.
The most interesting thing is that the Wakiki beach is artificial beach. So, it is suit for surf but the sand is not comfortable.
We rented the broads first, ten dollar for an hour. It's a big broad, I can not hold it in my armpit by my hand.
Every surf broad has a loop which can prevent the broad from leaving you and be a life bout for you.
Thomas is a good coach, so I get some strategies for surfing quickly:
1. try to lie on the broad and learn how to keep your balance.
2. practice sitting in the broad without losing balance when waves come.
Then, you could try it:
1. lie on the broad and back to wave.
2. As playing in relay race, turn your head, look at the wave and choose which one you want to surf. (try every wave need much energy)
3. find a good wave, concentrate on it, keep vertical with the wave.
4. patient, when it come to your back near 5 meters, use your arm to paddle the water.
5. when the wave lifts the broad tail, slowly pressure the broad to make your chest leave the broad.
6. Keeping balance with one-foot kneeling on your broad.
7. Gently standing and keeping control your weight distributions on the broad.
8. Congratulation! You get it!
Although I learned how to do it, I just success two times in a hour.
Keeping balance is not a easy thing. But I believe you will love it, too.
So next time if we go to Kendine, we should do that!